Riyadh Redefined: 12 Months of Change in the Kingdom

Jen Carr

07 Apr 2026 — 6 min read

April 7, 2026

If you had told me five years ago that I’d be spending my Decembers in the middle of the Saudi desert at one of the world’s loudest music festivals, I probably would have laughed. But life at 128 BPM takes you places you never expected.

John was back in Riyadh this past December for Soundstorm (the MDLBEAST powerhouse), and having visited in both 2024 and 2025, the pace of change is nothing short of electric.

The Canadian Passport Advantage: The Visa Hack

For my fellow Canadians, I have good news: the days of complicated embassy visits are over. In 2026, getting into Saudi Arabia is easier than getting a table at a trendy Toronto brunch spot.

The eVisa (The Best Way): As Canadians, we are eligible for the Electronic Visa (eVisa). You apply online, pay the fee (around $160 USD, which includes mandatory medical insurance), and you usually have the visa in your inbox within minutes.
The Visa on Arrival: If you’re a last-minute traveler (guilty!), you can also get a Visa on Arrival at Riyadh (RUH). There are self-service kiosks right before customs—you just scan your passport and pay by card.
The "Used Visa" Bonus: Even if you weren't Canadian, if you hold a valid and used US, UK, or Schengen visa, you are also eligible for the Visa on Arrival.
The Logistics: It’s a multiple-entry visa valid for one year, allowing you to stay for up to 90 days.

The Evolution: 2024 vs. 2025

Walking through Riyadh in 2025 felt fundamentally different than 2024.

The Atmosphere: In 2024, there was a sense of "newness." By 2025, the city felt settled into its new identity.
The Culture Shift: While the Abaya (the long robe) is no longer required for tourists, most women still opt for modest, chic layers. The biggest change? The sheer number of local women driving, running high-end hospitality, and leading the charge at MDLBEAST.

Our Base Camp: Marriott Riyadh Airport

Since John is working the festival, we stayed at the Marriott by the airport.

The "Lux" Perk: It’s a quiet sanctuary away from the city’s legendary traffic.
The "Loud" Reality: Staying near the airport area (where Soundstorm happens) saved us hours of commuting. Plus, with my Marriott Bonvoy points, the upgrades were easy.

Riyadh’s "Must-Hit" List

Diriyah: The birthplace of the Kingdom. Walking through the UNESCO site of At-Turaif at sunset is a spiritual experience.
The Edge of the World (Jebel Fihrayn): Stand on the 300-meter cliffs for the ultimate "main character" moment.
Camel Racing at Al-Janadriyah: Forget horse racing; the energy here is unmatched. It’s fast, dusty, and incredibly authentic.
The Souks: Head to Souq Al Zal for high-quality Oud perfumes and hand-woven carpets.
Kingdom Centre Tower: It offers a 360-degree panoramic sweep of Riyadh. On a clear day, you can see everything from the historic mud-brick ruins of Diriyah to the glowing grid of the modern business district.

The Vibe Check: Riyadh for Women

I want to be clear: I have never felt unsafe in Riyadh. * Security: Whether I was wandering a market at 10 PM or heading to a soundcheck, the level of respect and safety is 10/10.

The "Decency Charter": What to Wear & Tattoos

While the days of the mandatory Abaya are gone for tourists, the Public Decorum Charter is still very much in effect.

The Clothing Rule: Aim for "Modest-Chic." For women, this means covering your shoulders and knees. Loose, flowy linens are your best friend—they look expensive, stay cool, and show respect. Avoid anything transparent or skin-tight in public areas like malls or the Diriyah ruins.
The Tattoo Situation: Tattoos are technically haram (forbidden) in local culture, but as a non-Muslim tourist, you won’t be harassed for having them. However, out of respect—and to avoid unwanted attention—the "Loud & Lux" move is to cover them in public.
- Pro-Tip: If you have large pieces on your arms or legs, sheer long sleeves or stylish kimonos are a perfect way to stay "on brand" for your blog while staying covered. Face and neck tattoos are more likely to draw stares, so just be prepared for a bit of curiosity.

The "Red Line": Alcohol & Drugs

This is the area where there is zero "Lux for Less" wiggle room. The penalties in Saudi Arabia are some of the strictest in the world.

Alcohol: As of 2026, Saudi Arabia has begun a very limited rollout of alcohol in exclusive, high-end tourist zones (like some Red Sea resorts) and for non-Muslim diplomats. However, for the general public and in Riyadh, alcohol is still illegal.
- The Warning: Do not try to bring "duty-free" bottles in your luggage. Being intoxicated in public is a criminal offense that can lead to heavy fines, jail time, or deportation.
Drugs: There is a literal "War on Drugs" happening. Possession, use, or trafficking carries the harshest possible penalties, including the death penalty in extreme cases.
- The Prescription Hack: If you take controlled medication (like certain ADHD meds or strong painkillers), you must have a doctor’s note. In 2025, they launched the "Traveler’s Permit for Controlled Drugs" via the SFDA website. Use it. Do not land without that permit.

Why I Never Felt Unsafe

Despite these strict lines, the sense of security is incredible. I’ve walked through the Riyadh markets late at night and felt more secure than I do in some parts of Toronto or London. Because the laws are so clear and the culture values hospitality so deeply, you aren't looking over your shoulder. You just have to respect the house rules.

Beyond the Club: The "Loud & Lux" Guide to Riyadh Nightlife

One of the biggest culture shocks for people traveling with us on tour is the lack of a traditional "club scene" in Riyadh. If you’re looking for a dark room with a sticky floor and a gin and tonic, you’re in the wrong Kingdom.

But here is the "Lux for Less" secret: Riyadh has traded the nightclub for the High-End Lounge. The energy that usually goes into a bar scene is funnelled into world-class mixology (sans alcohol), stunning interior design, and a social scene that stays loud until 3 AM.

1. The "Mocktail" Masterclass: Meraki

Located in the Al Faisaliah District, Meraki is where the industry elite go to wind down.

The Vibe: High-end Greek aesthetic with floor-to-ceiling views of the city.
The Drink: Order the "Mykonos Mule." It’s a blend of ginger, lime, and Mediterranean botanicals that is so complex you’ll forget it’s 0% ABV.
The Lux Factor: This is "see and be seen" territory.

2. Industrial Cool: EL&N London (The Riyadh Edition)

You might know EL&N from London or Dubai, but the Riyadh locations (especially at The Zone) are on a different level of "Loud."

The Vibe: Neon signs, pink floral walls, and high-energy music. It’s the most Instagrammed cafe in the city.
The Drink: Their Blueberry & Elderflower Fizz is the perfect "refresh" after a dusty day at the camel races.
The Teen Factor: If your kids are with you, this is their favorite spot. It’s safe, high-vibe, and the dessert menu is a work of art.

3. The "Backstage" Hangout: Coyacity

If you want something that feels closer to a private member's club, head to Coyacity in the Laysen Valley.

The Vibe: Dark, moody, and ultra-modern. It’s where Riyadh’s creative crowd hangs out.
The Mixology: They specialize in "Smoked Mocktails." Watching the bartenders use wood-smoke infusions to create a deep, savory drink is pure theater.
The Loud Tip: This spot is best after midnight. The lighting is low, the bass is up, and the fashion is incredible.

A Kingdom in Motion

Riyadh is a city that doesn't sleep, especially in December. It’s vibrant, it’s welcoming, and it’s changing so fast that if you blink, you’ll miss the next big thing.

Talk soon (and probably loudly),

Jen